Wednesday, October 14, 2020

Personal Security

Personal security is obviously an issue in Pakistan.  I've been challenging myself to not let these issues define and color my experience too much while I'm in Pakistan because the reality is a constant undercurrent.  These concerns are not just evident for visitors.  Pakistanis will shake their heads and ask if I think things will get better.  One can only hope.

I've been keeping a low profile.  Most of the time I do not cover my head (not all Pakistanti women do) but always a scarf with me.  However, I do cover my head during car rides.

Low profile 
It feels very different and sometimes unsettling to be in a place where my mobility is so limited.  I'm used to exploring new places by foot, wandering the side streets and adventuring to tucked away cafes.  I haven't walked down any street.  Not one.  Door-to-door service for every place you go seems somewhat of a celebrity life.  As does constantly arranging your driver to pick you up here at this time and take you there.  Until you realize that you're somewhat under house arrest at each place you go.

View of my street from the car

The concept of having a private driver is certainly not unique to Pakistan as this would also be a preferable  and affordable arrangement in other more peaceful middle-income countries.  However, feeling wary of a 10-minute walk to the market by myself during daylight hours is palpably different.

Driver.
The extra psychological effort required to keep any security concern in realistic check is evident. I've been advised not to go to the brand-new shiny shopping mall with stores, a cinema, and a TGIFridays.  A landmark screaming of of the West.  Each car that pulls up to the McDonalds must pass through a security check-point.  All major roads have occasional policed checkpoints where passing cars slow down to swerve through the concrete roadblocks.

We never go out to a restaurant for lunch at the office, always ordering take-out to eat at the office.    The lovely patio garden, balcony with a view, and chirping birds of my guesthouse seem to peacefully co-exisit with the barbed wire wall around the building and two beret-wearing rifle-slinging security guards guarding the thick metal gate of the driveway.    


Security guards and gated entryway
When I was discussing weekend plans with my colleague, I suggested the major city sites that I wanted to see.  But wait.  A popular city landmark.  On Saturday afternoon.  Fuggedaboutit.  These places will be crowded on the weekends, he reminded me, and suggested we go during the week instead.  So we made a plan to visit all the popular places during the weekdays after work when they are less crowded and by proxy, safer.

Reality bites.  But comfort always awaits at the end of each day.  I retreat to my room, nestle under the blankets, cuddle up with my iPhone and fall asleep.

Plaque outside my room.  Not all the rooms have it.  Not sure why but I'm grateful.

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